Amsterdam’s Herring Obsession: A Street Food Guide

Introduction

Imagine a glistening, silver fish, its briny aroma mingling with the crisp tang of chopped onions. This isn’t just any fish; it’s Hollandse Nieuwe, or Dutch New Herring, a seasonal delicacy that Amsterdammers eagerly anticipate each year. For locals and tourists alike, sampling this iconic street food is a quintessential Amsterdam experience. This guide will take you on a flavorful journey through Amsterdam’s herring street food scene, revealing the best spots to indulge in this unique taste of Dutch culture. Beyond its delicious flavor, herring represents a tangible link to Amsterdam’s maritime history and its enduring connection to the sea. More than just a snack, Hollandse Nieuwe is a piece of Dutch identity served fresh from the cart.

What is Hollandse Nieuwe?

Dutch New Herring, or Hollandse Nieuwe, is a specific type of herring that is caught in the late spring and early summer, typically starting around late May or early June. This is when the herring has a high fat content, which contributes to its characteristic rich and buttery flavor. Crucially, it’s lightly brined rather than heavily salted like other types of pickled herring, preserving its delicate texture. The process involves gutting the fish (leaving the pancreas in, which aids in the curing process), then placing it in brine to lightly cure. The light brining is what sets it apart and allows the natural flavors of the herring to shine through.

The availability of Hollandse Nieuwe is highly seasonal, typically lasting until September, depending on the herring catch each year. The start of the season is celebrated with Vlaggetjesdag, or Flag Day, in the harbor of Scheveningen (near The Hague), marking the arrival of the first herring catch. This event is a significant cultural celebration, symbolizing the start of the herring season and the Dutch connection to the sea.

Determining the quality of Dutch New Herring involves several key indicators. Look for fish with a bright, silvery skin and a fresh, clean smell. The texture should be soft, almost melting in your mouth. The high fat content gives it a rich, buttery flavor and a smooth consistency. Avoid herring that looks dull, feels slimy, or has a strong, overly fishy odor. A good vendor will be proud to show off their herring and answer any questions you have about its freshness.

The traditional way to prepare and serve Hollandse Nieuwe is quite simple. It’s typically served whole, with the head and tail removed. The fishmonger will often clean and fillet the herring for you. The most iconic way to eat it is to hold the herring by the tail, tilt your head back, and lower the entire fish into your mouth. Alternatively, you can have it chopped into smaller pieces and served with chopped raw onions and zuur, or sour pickles, and augurken, or gherkins. Both ways are a delicious experience you can enjoy on the Amsterdam streets.

Where to Find the Best Herring Street Food in Amsterdam

Amsterdam is dotted with Haringkarren, or herring carts, each offering its own take on this classic street food. These carts are a staple of the Amsterdam street scene, easily recognizable by their colorful signs and the enticing aroma of fresh herring. Finding the best herring street food Amsterdam offers requires a bit of exploration, but here are a few recommendations to get you started:

Stubbe’s Haring

This stand, located near the Centraal Station, is a long-standing Amsterdam institution. They’ve been serving herring for generations, and their dedication to quality is evident in every bite. Their herring is incredibly fresh and flavorful, with a perfect balance of salt and fat. Expect a bit of a line during peak hours, as this is a popular spot with locals and tourists. A herring here will typically cost you a few euros, making it an affordable and delicious snack. Many consider it to be the best Herring Street Food Amsterdam has to offer.

Vishandel Albert Cuyp

Situated in the heart of the bustling Albert Cuyp Market, this fish stand offers a wide variety of seafood, but their herring is a standout. The atmosphere of the market adds to the experience, creating a vibrant and lively setting for enjoying your herring. Their herring is known for its exceptional freshness and the generous portions of onions and pickles they provide. It’s a great place to people-watch while savoring your Hollandse Nieuwe.

Frens Haringhandel

Found near the Singel canal, Frens Haringhandel provides a picturesque setting for enjoying Amsterdam’s famous fish. The herring here is always impeccably fresh, and they offer a variety of preparations, including the traditional whole herring and the chopped version with onions and pickles. Their friendly service and convenient location make it a popular choice for a quick and tasty snack.

Other Noteworthy Options

While the stands mentioned above are consistently highly rated, keep an eye out for other Haringkarren throughout the city. Many smaller, family-run stands offer excellent herring and a more intimate experience. Exploring the Jordaan neighborhood and the area around the Leidseplein can often lead to discovering hidden gems.

How to Eat Herring Like a Local

Eating herring like a local is a rite of passage in Amsterdam. The traditional method is undoubtedly the most iconic. First, grab the herring by the tail. Then, tilt your head back and lower the entire fish into your mouth, taking a bite from the top down. It might sound intimidating, but it’s surprisingly easy and a truly authentic experience.

Alternatively, you can opt for the chopped herring, served on a roll or a small plate. This version is typically accompanied by chopped raw onions and pickles, which complement the rich flavor of the herring perfectly. The onions add a sharp, pungent note, while the pickles provide a refreshing sourness.

Common condiments include, as mentioned before, chopped raw onions and zuur, which is sour pickles, and augurken, which are gherkins. You’ll also often find broodje haring, a herring sandwich on a soft white roll.

For a truly authentic experience, pair your herring with a local beverage. A cold Dutch beer, like Heineken or Amstel, is a classic choice. Alternatively, try jenever, a traditional Dutch gin that complements the salty flavor of the herring.

Beyond the Cart: Other Ways to Enjoy Herring in Amsterdam

While the street carts offer the most authentic and readily available herring experience, there are other ways to enjoy this delicacy in Amsterdam. Several restaurants feature herring on their menus, often in more elaborate preparations. Some examples include:

Restaurant Moeders

Known for its cozy atmosphere and traditional Dutch cuisine, Moeders (Mothers) sometimes offers herring as part of their seasonal specials.

Haesje Claes

Another popular restaurant serving traditional Dutch dishes, Haesje Claes may feature herring in salads or as an appetizer.

If you prefer to prepare your own herring at home, you can purchase it from supermarkets and fishmongers throughout Amsterdam. Albert Heijn, Jumbo, and other supermarkets typically carry Hollandse Nieuwe during the season. Local fishmongers offer the freshest and highest-quality herring, and they can also provide advice on how to prepare and serve it.

While less common, you might occasionally find herring-flavored snacks or products in Amsterdam, although these are typically aimed at tourists. These are generally not considered to be part of the traditional Dutch herring culture.

Tips for the Herring Adventurer

Embarking on a herring adventure in Amsterdam can be both exciting and rewarding. Here are a few tips to help you make the most of your experience:

Look for the Haringkar. These carts are easily identifiable and are the most reliable source of fresh, high-quality herring. Don’t hesitate to ask the vendor questions about the herring. They are usually passionate about their product and happy to share their knowledge.

Consider the time of day. Some stands may be busier during lunch hours, so plan accordingly if you want to avoid the crowds.

Pay attention to hygiene. Ensure that the cart appears clean and that the vendors are wearing gloves.

Most importantly, be open-minded. Herring may be an acquired taste, but it’s worth trying at least once. You might be surprised at how much you enjoy it. Many tourists find themselves seeking out herring street food Amsterdam wide after their first try.

Conclusion

Sampling Hollandse Nieuwe is an essential Amsterdam experience, offering a unique taste of Dutch culture and a glimpse into the city’s maritime history. From the iconic street carts to the restaurants and fishmongers, there are countless opportunities to indulge in this seasonal delicacy. Whether you choose to eat it whole, hold it by the tail, or prefer it chopped with onions and pickles, herring is a taste of Amsterdam you won’t soon forget. So, grab your camera and your appetite, and embark on your own herring adventure in Amsterdam! Let us know your favorite spot in the comments below. Discovering the best herring street food Amsterdam has is a rewarding experience, so get out there and taste the tradition!